Anderson Blouse in Atelier Brunette Crepe
I love crepe fabric. I love the look of it. I love the feel of it. It’s silk-like allure appeals to me because you can dress it up or down but it’s always pretty!
It’s a no-brainer for me if I see a nice crepe fabric, that I will make something out of it. I tend to wear a lot of blouses in spring/summer/fall and I have to admit, I have some favorite blouse patterns that I make over and over again.
One of these favorites is the Sew over it Anderson blouse. When starting to write this blog I counted the number of blouses I’ve made and I’ve already created 5 of them. Which makes this my sixth! Not sure how many of you do this as well, create a pattern multiple times... I sometimes wonder if my friends, colleagues, and family notice that it is the same one. I do use a lot of different kinds of fabrics, so maybe they don’t see it!
Let’s get into it. This fabric is the amazing Atelier Brunette crepe in the color Forest. Am I the only one or are you also loving the color descriptive names the French give to their fabrics? Anyway, the colors of this crepe collection are very rich. The fabric is extremely soft to the touch and very deep and saturated in color. It’s made out of 100% high-quality viscose and is OEKO-TEX certified. Which means this fabric is manufactured without using chemical substances that are damaging to your health. I love making tops, blouses and (wrap)dresses out of crepe. It has a chicness about it that’s easy to dress down with a pair of jeans and sneakers. You can find all the colors we have in the stock here.
For any of you that don’t know the Anderson blouse pattern, there are a few nice details to it, but it is still a fairly simple make. It’s a classic silhouette with a wrap front has a drape that gives the blouse an effortless and chic look. Instead of using darts in the bodice to give shape to the blouse, there is gathering at the shoulders. This creates a gorgeous drape that’s very flattering.
The sleeves of this pattern are long! Longer than some of the other patterns out there. And I know because I’m tall and usually like wearing my sleeves long, so I normally have to add length to a pattern. In this case, they mustn’t be too short, because you need them to be long enough to also get a nice drape at your writs. It has a pleat at the cuff and closes with a button.
The one thing I changed, is that I didn’t add a drawstring at the hem. I always wear my blouses tucked into high waist jeans, trousers and skirts. Having a drawstring there gives a bit of bulk. I solved it by just adding a normal hem. Depending on the fabric type I used, I either followed the instructions of the overlaps of the bodice fronts and placed them as indicated in the pattern. But for example with this crepe, it is so soft and buttery that I decided to overlap the front pieces by 3 extra centimeters. So that it’s a bit snugger and the drape falls nicer.
One thing I added to some of the blouses, is a press-stud to make sure the drape doesn’t fall open with certain movements. To prevent showing too much cleavage. Especially when wearing it to work, it’s better to be covered up a bit without worrying you will show a bit of your bra.
Sewing with crepe fabric
Sewing with crepe fabric can be a bit tricky. It’s more slippery than for example a cotton lawn. The trick is to use a lot of pins and staystitch important parts of the blouse: the neckline, front pattern parts, shoulder seams, sleeve head, and cuff. This way the fabric won’t stretch too much out of shape because you will find yourself not pulling or pushing too hard to run it through your machine.
Always use a very sharp and thin needle when sewing with crepe and viscose. It gives the nicest finish and it doesn’t damage your fabric!